Detailing the Hangar 9 P-47 Razorback (2024)

Apr 10, 2006, 04:01 PM

• #1

k_sonn

Thread OP

Discussion

Since there is another good thread documenting the assembly of the Hangar 9 P-47, I decided to start a thread showing the changing of the color scheme, adding surface detail (panel lines, rivets, hatches, etc.) and weathering. Originally I was going to strip the covering and glass the airframe but due to time constaints, will leave the covering on. I will post photos as I go along.

Kirk

Apr 10, 2006, 04:51 PM

• #2

Synwpn

Apr 10, 2006, 08:46 PM

• #3

k_sonn

Thread OP

Thanks Dave.

I'm going to approach this project in phases:
Phase 1 -- Prep work
- Iron on the covering, getting rid of any air bubbles.
- Scuff the covering with fine steel wool.
Phase 2 -- Surface Detail
- Add panel lines
- Add hatches and covers
- Add rivets
Phase 3 -- Paint
- Wipe the covering with denatured alcohol
- Paint surface colors and markings
Phase 4 -- Weathering
- Weather the paint

This past weekend I started on the starboard wing. Phase 1 and 2 are completed on the top of the wing. I need to paint on the Stars and Bars to complete Phase 3. The bottom of the wing has Phase 1 completed and is in Phase 2.

The first photo below shows the difference in the color between the two wings. The second photo shows a close up of the gas cap located on the leading edge of the wing. If anyone is interested, as I progress, I can show photos of how I complete each phase and the tools I use.

Thanks,
Kirk

Apr 10, 2006, 09:01 PM

• #4

k_sonn

Thread OP

Apr 11, 2006, 02:43 AM

• #5

modeldesigns

Hi Kirk,

Absolutely brilliant!...thanks for sharing, i am sure there is going to plenty of good ideas for detailing the H9 47 (like the fuelcap, love to see and read how you did that please).

That colour scheme too - magic!

One question, how did you remove the decals? Mine are all welded down very firmly.

Pete.

Apr 11, 2006, 05:16 AM

• #6

drksyd

Apr 11, 2006, 11:54 AM

• #7

k_sonn

Thread OP

Hi Pete,

Nice build thread you have going. Love the way you rebuilt the firewall.

Tonight I will post some photos of the tools and templates I use and technique of simulating surface detail.

The decals (Stars and Bars, Numbers) are made from ultracoat. I heated them a little with a covering iron and pulled them off. There may be some adhesive residue left behind. I cleaned the residue with acetone followed by denatured alcohol.

Kirk

Apr 11, 2006, 11:59 AM

• #8

k_sonn

Thread OP

Hey Cliff,

I picked it up the day after I returned from Hawaii. I'm still debating whether I want to replace the retracts with Robarts or stay with the mechanicals.

Take yours out of the box and we can build them together at the same time

Kirk

Apr 11, 2006, 01:32 PM

• #9

Dora Nine

Apr 11, 2006, 02:36 PM

• #10

modeldesigns

Hi Kirk,

Thanks, and i look forward to reading of your techniques.

Pete.

Apr 11, 2006, 11:29 PM

• #11

drksyd

Apr 12, 2006, 12:09 AM

• #12

k_sonn

Thread OP

I'm using the Tamiya Warbird paint in the spray can. If I'm not mistaken, denatured alcohol has less water than Isopropyl alcohol. You can get denatured alcohol from a hardware store. I scuffed the covering until it had a dull sheen. Scuff in a circular motion just like you would do if you where sanding primer. You want to scuff the covering enough so that the paint will stick to it but you don't want to scuff it so hard that scratch marks show through the paint.

Kirk

Apr 12, 2006, 12:18 AM

• #13

k_sonn

Thread OP

Yes, I'm using the AXI 5330/18. When I ran it the numbers I saw were 62A and 2045 watts with a 10S4P TP Prolite pack and an APC-E 18x10 prop. If I can stay at the 20 pound mark, that will give me about 100 watts per pound which should be plenty for scale flying.

The Jeti 77 should be ok. If you follow the 80% rule, it will be just right:
77A * .80 = 61.6

Kirk

Apr 12, 2006, 12:20 AM

• #14

k_sonn

Thread OP

Apr 12, 2006, 12:25 AM

• #15

k_sonn

Thread OP